Saturday, December 19, 2009
Thursday, December 3, 2009
Ruching Pattern: (over 13 sts)
6) kfb across
Knit for 10 rows
Next round: k2tog across
Repeat from (1)
That would be the ruching pattern that is referred throughout the rest of the pattern. Yikes. The pdf has been fixed, and everyone who actually bought the thing has already been notified. I just felt the need for a little more self-flagellation so here we go: Knitters everywhere please accept my humble apologies and repentance for committing the sin of hubris and extremely poor proofreading. Mea Culpa, mea culpa, mea maxima culpa.
Tuesday, November 17, 2009
Wednesday, October 28, 2009
It's finally fall, bar none the bestest time of year, IMHO.
It's been a while since I posted last, during which hiatus
my former place of employment closed, I sat around in
dirty PJ's and moped for a couple weeks, visited Texas
during a heat wave, and got myself a brand new job at a
certain UES purveyor of exclusive cashmere.
. . . and now I'm finally returning to the most important
job of all - providing knitters with more free patterns.
Without further ado,
by Erin Ruth
Download the pdf here.
Yummy chunky quick-knit hat for fall. Great for guys and girls. Perfect accessory for sneaking out of windows . . .
Materials: 2 balls each in 2 colors (A and B) of Tahki Torino Bulky, 55 yds/ball, (pictured in #210 Black and #236 Heather Grey)
Size 10 16" circular needles or size needed to get gauge.
Size 10 double-point needles
Size 11 16" circular needles
Gauge: 5 sts/in in pattern stitch
This striped and ribbed hat requires a tubular cast-on. Those unfamiliar with the tubular cast-on should check out the tutorials at
Cast on 48 sts with scrap yarn on larger needles.
Join in round.
Purl 2 rows with A.
Purl 2 rows with B.
From this point forward make every knit stitch with A and every purl stitch with B.
Make your tubular cast on knitting with A and purling with B. Pull out the scrap yarn. You should now have 96 sts on the needle.
Continue working in (k1, p1) rib - yep, still knitting with A and purling with B - until you have 8 inches from the cast on edge.
Begin decreases: (all k2tog, and ssk are worked with color A)
Round 1: [ssk, (k1, p1)9x, k1, k2tog, p1]4x
Round 3: [ssk, p1, (k1, p1)8x, k2tog, p1]4x
Round 5: [ssk, (k1, p1)7x, k1, k2tog, p1]4x
Round 7: [ssk, p1, (k1, p1)6x, k2tog, p1]4x
Round 9: [ssk, (k1, p1)5x, k1, k2tog, p1]4x
Round 11: [ssk, p1, (k1, p1)4x, k2tog, p1]4x
Round 13: [ssk, (k1, p1)3x, k1, k2tog, p1]4x
Round 15: [ssk, p1, (k1, p1)2x, k2tog, p1]4x
Round 17: [ssk, k1, p1, k1, k2tog, p1]4x
Round 19: [ssk, p1, k2tog, p1]4x - 16 sts remain.
Break yarn, leaving a long tail. Draw tail through remaining 16 sts with darning needle, pulling sts closed at top of hat. Weave in ends.
Friday, July 3, 2009
Just moving this pattern over from The Point's blog, so the free pattern goodness will live on . . .
Fingerless ribbed arm warmers
By Erin Ruth
Materials: 2 balls of Sublime Organic Merino (113 yds/ball)
Size 6 (or size needed to obtain gauge!) double-pointed needles
Gauge: 5.5 sts/in in stockinette (6 sts/in in 1×2 rib)
Cast on 42 sts.
Join in the round.
(K1, p2) around for every round until you have a 12” tube.
Creating Thumb Hole:
Using scrap yarn instead of working yarn, knit the first 8 sts of round.
Turn and work back across these 8 sts, still using scrap yarn.
Pick up the working yarn again and knit in (K1, p2) rib over the 8 scrap yarn and continue on around the round.
Work in pattern for 1.5” more.
Bind off loosely in pattern.
Carefully pull out the scrap yarn, one stitch at a time. As you remove the scrap yarn place each stitch on your needle. You should end up with 8 sts on the bottom and 8 sts across the top for 16 sts total. Divide these sts on 3 needles, join yarn, and begin working in the round, maintaining the established rib pattern. When you get to the corner between the top and bottom stitch, pick up and knit one stitch in each corner for a total of 18 sts. Knit these 18 sts in (k1, p2) rib for 1”. Bind off loosely in pattern.
Finishing: Use the tail where you joined yarn at the thumb to tighten up the corners – there will be small gaps where the stitches turn. Weave in ends.